The kicker is, the house has radiant floor heating, and came with a 2005 boiler. If you would like to see pics of my installation, please forward an email address I can attach them to. What amazes me is the parallel worlds which seem to exist in heating technology on different continents and the reaction of people to the other system (you have hot water in pipes going all around your house ? Each length of pex begins in the utility core, makes its circuit around its designated zone, and comes back so that it will circulate the water in a closed-loop heat system. I did not see a temperature/pressure relief valve. I presume you had the wood thoroughly seasoned before laying it, otherwise it would split. Damned heat exchanger added a degree of Clayton Great article! I obtained a design for the entire system from Supply House (aka PexSupply.com) where I also bought the components. In fact, right now I have an office torn apart and I just stapled down my aluminum heat spreaders the other night: http://ecorenovator.org/forum/renovations-new-construction/1680-remodeling-office-new-floor-ceiling-adding-insulation-passive-house-retrofit.html. Its all too easy for 90% of the flow go through one or 2 loops while the others get very little flow. I remember watching a TV show many years ago about energy efficient heating where the homeowners had tanks that I believe were made of metal, painted a dark color, and filled with paraffin. Im curious about how you installed your wood floor over the concrete, direct or float? Then about two years ago the tankless heater stopped working. Julien, I wasnt sure if the DWHR would be worth it, but recently did the first measuring on the unit. PEG (polyethylene glycol) is the primary component of antifreeze, is more viscous and has higher thermal capacity than water. A wooden box, thats what I am talking about!
If you are a Professional Plumber or Do-it-yourselfer, a Custom Supply Piping Diagram will go a long way keeping your project on tract. Since that's not what I used, I can't be of assistance. And now it all gets covered up! Yes! Complaints and insults generally wont make the cut here, but by all means write them on your own blog! Use a hot water storage tank to smooth out the temperature in your loops. Im going to do a little theory work (which you might already know) first and follow it up with a few recommendations (things I would certainly do) and a few ideas (things you might do or might do if the original design gives you trouble). This is a small and probably unnescessary precaution, but it might save you some hassle in the future and itll cost you only a couple of minutes. I love that youre going with hydronic heat. Do you continue to use PEX in the pipes under the floor itself? I also installed an air separator and drain valves on every low spot so I can easily isolate and drain the system down during the non-heating seasons. I figured the temperature/pressure relief valve on the water heater would be sufficient, but will consider your suggestion! /shop/heating-system-supply-piping-diagram-19353. February 28, 2014, 7:43 pm. 24850 Old 41 Ste 7 Wow, a heated driveway! I have learned to do my own plumbing, and new technologies have come down in price that make radiant heat much more affordable. Ive seen too many people use an ordinary hot water heater and they just wear out from use because they arent designed to be run 24/7 to heat a house. Best of both worlds :-), Paularado We are living in the house and the system works great. His zones actually all will have the same flow. Plus lots of passive houses use heat recovery ventilation units with some resistance heat elements included for backup. So how do we build one of these systems? This is a great point. Our full-featured web hosting packages include everything you need to get started with your website, email, blog and online store. Its was like a spiritual experience it hit me one day while reading your blog. boiler system wood boilers open closed mixing valve installation diagram heating optimizer proper radiant February 19, 2014, 10:51 am. Theyre very good on electricity usage, as well. Have you looked into that for your system? Wet heating pipework is very DIY-able gas appliances are best left to those who know what they are doing. If I were to have another house built, I would have a heated water floor system included, as my feet are always cold in the winter. It had been a hoarders house but after only about a year and $10,000 of work I turned my $150,000 investment into a $200,000 prize (I had it appraised so I could refinance into a 4% mortgage). The pump doesnt kick on very often and the house stays evenly heated. Would it become more costly? the 2nd floor) by circulating year round (if possible). For more casual sampling, have a look at this complete list of all posts since the beginning of time or download the mobile app. Mr. Grump
Love the radiant, love the gas boilers. It gets worse if/when you discover that one pump isnt enough and you add another pump. There is no hot air blasting dust from vents, and no more feeding a wood stove and having a house that's either too hot or too cold. In an open loop system this is bad. We have an Airscape fan that we use in the evenings/mornings here in UT. This same concept applies nicely to warming a house with hydronic radiant heat: warm water circulates in tubesunder your floor, causing the floor to warm up and shine heat at you from all directions. system hydronic heating boiler heat diagram valve radiant systems air mixing low pressure loop designing avoid things plumbing secondary pumping We almost didnt pass the home inspections because the inspector was not familiar with the primary heating solution we were using: When my husband and I built our home in 2001, we decided to do the following: For a residential model it is designed to provide hot water on demand, which might be a few hours per day in a typical household. Thanks for the promo code on GPconservation.com, MMMjust purchased the tankless water heater Ive been mulling over for a while!! You are right that I should really do a USEFUL DIY article that is applicable to people in more typical situations. All dealt with by a control panel. I live in a bubble. (not sure if other have suggested this). Good question Jess the Rifeng manifold allows you to monitor and adjust the flow rate on each loop individually. It's interesting hearing this information from outside the states, thank you! Add a system check valve (others have suggested both of these) I would put the check in the return line where it ties back into the cold water supply. Works great thus far! I will also publish a second post when everything is done, to show a few of the steps in progress and the finished pictures. February 19, 2014, 8:32 am. Mr. Money Mustache There are several different heat transfer points in a radiant floor system. To solve a heat transfer problem you have to calculate both how much energy is being supplied by the hot side, and how much energy can be accepted by the cold side. They were on wheels and in the morning, before they went to work, they rolled the tanks in front of their large south-facing windows. I, too, took plenty of photos as the system was put in incase I needed the info later. So my conclusion is that the tankless water heater is the weak link in such a system. February 19, 2014, 2:52 pm. You can also buy tankless heaters with two independent loops: one for heating, one for potable water. These can be more efficient than central A/C systems, because you only cool the rooms where heat is building up. I was going to stuff some standard R-13 batts into each joist bay anyway (to insulate the house from its crawlspace), so that will cover both purposes. I labeled the PVC pipes according to zone (kitchen, bathroom, living room, etc.). I mentioned that fact to our electric company energy expert and he said, "Wow!" The indoor air quality of our house last winter was a real bummer, especially considering what we had to fork out to buy the house. Reply There are solutions. This is why I have always gone with forced air furnaces in the past. I will post about the official test results in the next few weeks. Your response time is fast and its good to see an article on something more impressive than radiant heat and roofs. This is a safety item that must be installed, preferably at the heater discharge. Admittedly climate varies a lot, but why did forced air take off in North America, while wet heating systems are the norm in Europe where many countries have access to natural gas which is pretty good at heating air.and air-con is not usually an issue (southern Med in high summer being the exception). We build various things for our Funny Farm and I write about them. Please keep us updated on the performance. Holy cow the pictures look awesome and I couldnt even imagine the hard work and studying you have had to put in. In high school I did water treatment equipment installation and maintenance for my Dads company. You definitely do not want to use an electric tankless water heater for this type of project. Not something that is easily, and inexpensively done, as an afterthought. February 19, 2014, 12:31 am. February 20, 2014, 3:10 pm. a cold leg means no flow, no flow means dead water.
Sounds like you are deep into and enjoying your radiant heat experiment. What do you think about running some of the radiant heat loops in the shower/underneath the shower pan/tub and the walls? To answer your question, yes the perimeter is the biggest heat-loss so that's why they recommend starting from the outside and working in, but you have an intriguing idea. http://www.mrmoneymustache.com/2012/04/27/nicer-legs-and-some-new-carpentry-skills-for-only-15-bucks/. Free to Pursue Let us know how it goes! These diagrams show piping diameters and flow direction. Seems like something that could be used to blow hot air under floor space, too. Take another cue from industry and eliminate flushing of the system (save for once every 30 years) use PEG on your closed loop. The temperature you want your domestic hot water at (55-65C) is unlikely to be the same as the temperature you want the floor pipes to be running at for optimal efficiency (probably around 30C a few degrees above target room temp just enough heat flow to compensate for heat loss.). Also, those engineered I-beam joists look like they are going to allow you plenty of insulation thickness for your ceiling. Protect your company name, brands and ideas as domains at one of the largest domain providers in Scandinavia. The sun would heat the tanks and melt the paraffin. The house rebuilding project is going well.
Or maybe built it with one of those old iron antique radiators in one room just for show and an access point. Since its not imperative that I heat my shop at all times, I just havent got it working again. If not, I would add a shut off for each loop in case you arent going to be using a room for a while, or need to work on a leak without losing heat in the rest of the house. They illustrate connections of electrical items but are not intended as wiring diagrams (see Wiring Diagrams). I really enjoyed this article, and all of the comments! Finally, I installed concrete doobies and tied down rebar, all just standard practice for a concrete floor. 3 Your capital costs seem modest. Based on usage this first winter a typical 1000L oil tank will I believe last us for two years between refills. But, in our case the heat lost by the water heater's stored hot water is gained in the house anyway and, a water heater is cheaper to replace. Also, have you considered the Rinnai 175C? Radiant heating is the worst invention in history, our house gets colder then outside in the winter, and it's expensive, and there is never hot water. Tampa, FL33634 You have an awesome off-the-grid system, sounds like! Hey Mr. MM. http://greensboro.craigslist.org/mat/4313121319.html, Roch Naleway This is about installing hydronic radiant floor heating in a slab floor system. They will save you time and money by diagramming your supply piping and making sure the details are addressed before material is ordered. Each one of these steps has a certain drop in temperature delta T, that it takes to move BTUs per hour across that material. Ours was on the cold-water side, before the heater.). The cats love it. Spend the extra $7 for check valves and youll save yourself a lot of hair-pulling-out. The aluminum heat deflector plates help with the heat transfer a bit. I love radiant heat, but I think Ill be ok with this particular forced air heat. Will there be glitches? Wouldn't it make more sense, for comfort, to reverse the direction so the hotter temp water is coming into the center of the rooms and the colder is going out around the perimeter, or, is it done the way you have it because the colder temp of the room would be around the perimeter because of exterior walls and windows? Jason Natael No leaks, ever. Doesn't seem to make any difference about the heat in the rooms. I am a lifelong do it yourself builder, contractor, solar installer and live in NH. My old heater has been a bit fussy lately anyway, and I figure the new tankless would increase my sale value by at least its cost, plus save the new owners a shitload of energy when I sell this place, since this is a 4BR/4BA house that will probably be occupied by the typical insane-shower-and-laundry family after we leave :-), Mr. Grump Going with a natural gas tankless system is a good idea. 5404 Hoover Blvd Ste 14 Mr. Money Mustache heating plan central honeywell systems sundial You think that because thats the way you want it to work, and you assume the water will flow the way you drew the arrows. http://www.rinnai.us/boiler/product/q175c I think you would still need a insulated heating hot water tank to smooth things out. It seems to me that while PEX is superior in almost all other situations, particularly in the boiler room as you mention, copper piping might actually be preferable in the under-floor section simply because it would conduct heat so much better. a. 4925 SW 74th Ct (i) You could specify one that has a couple of loops through it, to facilitate solar heating. Here's a photo of it during the installation. I say this only because Im very familiar with both the theory and practice of pumping, boilers, water and water chemistry, and heat transfer. At the peak, the cold water feeding in at the bottom was at 48.2 F while the water leaving the DWHR at the top was at 79.9 F. It picked up a good chunk of thermal energy from the shower drain water. so the full loop you show on your drawing should return to the manifold on the far right side. But I followed the standards, having no experience with the system, and no willingness to take a jack-hammer to the floor later to redo it all!
Update: After building the system with these, I feel it was highly worthwhile as it makes installation faster and cleaner, and improving heat transfer is a worthwhile goal with wood floors while they work well, you do need all the heat you can get. Reply This way it doesnt get hotter than it must. They can probably guide you to hook this system up to an instant water heater. ;a|43sHPKm]yff NCLWF1)7lejoddj15f+ iAwN6nuGdD#zX>::_`
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S. 2781 Vista Pkwy N Ste K-8 February 21, 2014, 1:06 am. You are assuming that all 6 zones will have an equal flow. I sanded and did a clear finish, didn't want to hide that beautiful aging. Its an easy way of slightly reducing your energy consumption. Non-plumbing comment: did you just build up off the lower level wall framings top plate when you pushed the roof up? I wanted to make sure there were no leaks before that 4 inch thick concrete was poured on top of them. 4 years ago, Thank you very much for your nice comments. markincolo My wife and I are used to cold winter nights from living back east, so letting the house cool down to 58-60 degrees at night and then quickly spiking the main level up to 64-65 degrees first thing in the am seems to be working well for us. Since then my work has been hot water, steam, heat transfer, pumps, high purity water, and process controls with an 18 month stint as an energy auditor. After this was done, I moved on to building the house. Anyway, about your place. Pexheat.com Custom Supply Piping Diagrams are created by trained professionals familiar with your project. The flow is still not perfect and seems to have a cold leg sometimes. One for hot water one for radiant. contact this location, Window Classics-Pembroke Park As I go through my house renovating I am adding it as well. This can continue until your boiler trips out on an error. This system is now up and running and you can read the results in the update article here: The Radiant Heat Experiment Did it Work? Add a valve to each loop, either at the supply header or the return header. (Or pushing, depending on which side you have your pump on. heat loss) but using copper on the long runs under the floor. There is no noise other than the quiet hum of the little pump and the usual water heater sounds. (ex. I dont see a way to do it here. Pleasecontact usfor a quote or more information. A picture from just this morning: Here is the new living room and the kitchen around the corner in the back. If the house has a very tight envelope, temperatures will be so nearly uniform inside that I think the difference between in-floor radiant and mini-split heated air would be nearly imperceptible. It all works surprisingly well, which is why this method of heating is surprisingly popular. Mr. Money Mustache contact this location, Window Classics-West Palm Beach
But the water will flow where it wants to. I slipped the pipes through 3/4" electrical conduit angles where the pipes needed to turn up the wall, and then slipped on 3/4" PVC pipe to keep them straight and protected during the building process. William Krick "Air in the lines comes up as the #1 issue setting these up the first time. The tricks Im applying for my system: Boiling it all down, the system I ended up with is relatively simple, and I drew it out for you in this picture: My proposed radiant heat system (click for larger). I would look at using the heat exchanger coil on the hot side. b. I bought a spare pump just in case of an emergency, and the only other component that can wear out is the water heater which I made sure is easily accessible. But that probably would be more trouble than its worth and wouldnt work that well. Do what industry does on heating systems circulate year round. I am in Scotland and we use around 2.5L of oil, and a basket of wood a day in the depth of winter. I ordered two sizes up and the system is now working beautifully. And I absolutely love PEX. Gotcha! My system also provides the domestic HW via a tempering valve. Quick question on this, just out of curiosity. Slowing the water will lower the return water temperature, but it will also increase supply temperature (adding the same energy to less flow) causing the boiler to trip out sooner. I built a large utility core with plenty of room for two water heaters as the one designated for the floor would be set low, and space for me to get in to build the system and make adjustments. In my own system, based on BTU calculations I expect the heater to run less than 2 hours a day in winter, and only a few minutes per day outside the heating system (a few 5-minute showers per week plus a little bit for the kitchen sink/dishwasher). As a counterpoint, there are other ways to achieve this. Mr. Money Mustache Hi thanks for the question and cool photo! I trusted the supply house to provide me with a pump adequate for the system they designed, but that didnt happen. But the best part may be that you have constantly warm feet, wherever you go in your house. I also installed my own system and congratulate you on a neat system. About 2400 pounds of 6x4 steel behemoths, welded together and bolted into everything in sight from foundation to roof sheathing, along with some shear walls and hold-down straps. My primary heat source is a wood burner stove with wrap around boiler. I didnt think a tankless heater could keep up with heat load in a larger home, but Im thrilled to see youve applied MMM theory and DIY to finding a solution. Great ideas, back when I lived in northern Utah this would have been great, especially on our tiles. Id like to see you try THAT!! Without check valves, what happens is that the pump will sometimes start pulling cold water (backwards) from some loops. 3 years ago. (ii) Add an electric heater, so there is a back up in case the main boiler needs attention. February 21, 2014, 4:22 pm. Your house looks great by the way. Good job. The option for an instant-flow water heater was there, but I didnt want to spend that kind of money. http://greensiphouse.blogspot.com/2012/02/radiant-floor-heating.html. I love radiant heat. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Take a look around. You need a check valve in every loop. And one of these experimental projects is to build my own radiant under-floor heating system. Ours relies on electricity, though if we were in a good area for solar, we could heat the water with the sun. Neat stuff! If these features can work efficiently and effectively in a place that was deemed colder than Mars this past winter, (Winnipeg, Canada) Im pretty sure they can work anywhere! You can determine the needs in advance (I now realize) by calculating the feet of head. Bugs are bad (esp. I didn't mention we did lay slate or travertine tile in the two bathrooms and (real) wood floor in the bedrooms. The system that I have wanted to install would be for my basement wood floors only (3 above the floor of my sub-basement). It was a basically a dust pump installed in a nasty crawl space. With heating and electricity generation accounting for nearly 25% of all greenhouse gas emissions, radiant helps manage energy usage and offers superior indoor environmental quality (IEQ) that forced-air systems just cant provide. Place your expansion tank on the cold water side of the boiler. heat pump and ducting, where all the ducts are along the perimeter walls. They will not have the heating capacity needed to power a radiant floor heating system. Its also possible that the PEX will not be able to move enough heat at 30 delta T for such a small area. Useful when you probably have a mix of materials, including ferrous, copper & aluminium in the system. As the final cheat sheet, here is my shopping cart from PexSupply, my preferred supplier of plumbing stuff. Any body can rip off a roof and replace it or design and install a radiant heat system in a few hours. A few electric space heaters or electric baseboards are easy to throw in and that allows tuning zone temps using your own kWh from PV on the roof. The relay tells the system when to start up. The first step was to install a vapor barrier over the gravel base inside the stem wall, and then insulate. When my small construction company was building some houses from the ground up a few years ago, the architect highly recommended that we use hydronic (radiant) heat instead of forced air. Added a sun room to our homes south-facing wall for heat capture in the winter. Mine is a pretty heavy-duty commercial unit, but the warranty expressly is void if it is used for radiant heat, probably for that reason. It seems like you could add in a check valve and run all the new (cold municipal water) water through the radiant tubing prior to heating and it would prevent stagnation and any potential for water quality issues. Add in the water heater and you have a complete heat and hot water system that costs less than a single low-efficiency furnace. Hydronics are very popular in the east. The main cost will still be fuel. I have already run this by a system designer and received his nod of approval, and completed some of the installation, so I am sure we can get this to work. \3'?wkHNvmr /_\~i=4/}=y_{'5v/_%t]3J+k27mP5VR%S BFypHru!2cm~d%^7R I see no harm in spending a bit more to get max efficiency, a robust long life and upgrade possibilities (especially solar). 1. Tell all them curmudgeons calling BS to pound sand. February 19, 2014, 11:57 am. hi MMM you mentioned possibly installing a mini-split heat pump later on to offer some air cooling. It may extend the life of our roof as well, by getting the built-up daytime heat out. As per the diagram/plan, all the pipes end in the utility core to be attached to the radiant floor system inside. Use LoopiaWHOIS to view the domain holder's public information. On top of that, hydronic heating is an art and science unto itself, with things like T, GPM, BTU/hr, and R-value calculations involved. After one winter here in Montana I gave up on it and got a woodstove. Neither home inspectors nor realtors spend a week in a house in the dead of a cool, damp December so these types of issues rarely get disclosed during the house buying process. The pipe is very unwieldy especially in a coil that long, so I built a big spool for it and added dolly wheels so it could follow me around as I unwound pipe. I think they were 4 feet wide, 6 feet tall, and maybe 1 foot thick.
Sure! Roch Naleway Im super excited for you! West Palm Beach, FL33411 Use the tie-down method for installations on or below grade. The other temperatures will be determined by the materials, installation, and physics. When you look at the typical boiler room in a luxury house, there are all sorts of valves and sensors, and miles of meticulously soldered copper from the $35,000 plumber. It is food safe and good to -50 deg. Then, when I was building a shop next to my home about ten years ago, I designed and installed in-floor hydronic radiant heat using the regular potable PEX and a tankless water heater. I don't know if a spiral pattern as you describe would make any difference, and it's an intriguing question. Our neighbors all have staple up and they have trouble sometimes keeping their homes warm (were at 9000 ft in the mountains, by the way). Aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat, so using aluminum heat-transfer plates is an effective way to install a high-performing radiant floor heating system when concrete overpour on the surface of the floor is not an option. Although I work writing software to model energy use in buildings, many design decisions are still very hard to quantify, with complicated and difficult to predict consequences beyond energy consumption. I am surprised that the wood floor doesn't noticeably take longer to warm up. And that was before he made me pour a whole new steel-reinforced footing in the basement and strap it to one of two new shear walls :-), Andy Connors The longer the run, the more heat loss, as you know. Is there a good reason not to do this? Again, nothing you cant handle. Since its a newfangled thing I couldnt find anybody to work on it. contact this location, Window Classics-Sarasota MMM, youre a genius! your boiler will not turn on in the summer in CO. I have six, so that meant each zone (room) only had x number of feet of pipe out of about 900 total. I though for sure you were going to need collar ties and a center load bearing beam for the roof. We have radiant heat in our basement in 4 concrete. November 17, 2014, 4:55 pm. I built a sub-floor on top of a vapor barrier then laid the wood floor in the conventional manner. All the surrounding framing is screwed into the steel beams at 2 intervals with somewhat beefy 1/4 x 4 lag screws. Great write up. I was asked to provide a floor plan along with my intended insulation values for the floor, wall, and ceilings. February 18, 2014, 9:50 pm, I built and designed my house and included radiant heat in the concrete slab. 3. While Ive destroyed and rebuilt quite a few houses for other people, this is the first one I have been fortunate enough to create from nearly scratch for my own family, so I am treating it as a bit of a science experiment. Ours is so quiet, I have to get close to tell if it turned on! Now I can focus on my real passion, working with dog rescues and foster dogs. By foundation was formed accordingly do you mean these rooms were formed below the level of bare floor to accommodate the extra height?
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